29 - 30.08.2011

I continue from Erzurum to Oltu where Veysel hosts me. He is about to emigrate to Canada to join his girlfriend without his parents or even his friends knowing about it. His relations with the family are not the best and his two brothers use the apartment he has just moved in to against his will.


Veysel tells me about his out-of-body, or astral body, experiences and I am instantly reminded of a friend's experiences in London as well as those of my dear mother. Veysel used a video to induce the necessary state of relaxation, and after more than fifteen unsuccessful and frustrating attempts, he suddenly found himself observing the front of his physical body from above, sitting motionlessly in front of the computer screen. The accompanying sounds of whispers, knockings and footsteps, were however unbearable and incredibly frightening, which infused in him great respect for this undertaking. The parallels to Jay's reports from London were striking in many respects. I am reminded of what I have read and what a man practicing yoga had once told my mother: It is absolutely essential to do any such work with a real master who works selflessly and is one with you at heart.


Two couchsurfers from Poland left Veysel just a couple of days before I came and left this little artwork: "The basis of freedom is courage, and freedom is the basis of happiness" - Tupidyoles

I leave Oltu towards Uzundere in the Choruh valley, which is known for its biodiversity and church ruins. The region was Georgian throughout many centuries in the middle ages and the remains of numerous Christian churches and monasteries can still be seen. I walk down the road by Uzundere and three young men from Erzurum stop their car beside me to ask where I am going and to offer a lift. We decide to visit the largest church in the area together, Oshk Vank. The 1000 year old copula inspires reverence (pictures will follow).


We continue to a small village in the valley where we visit the family of friend of my companions. We are offered sweet-corn, bread, cheese and pastries and are invited to see the steep terraced garden in which the family grows most of its own food. After this we visit an old desolate apple-tree forest, collect what we desire and continue to the Tortum waterfall, apparently the seventh-largest worldwide. I jump in at the bottom; the spray and wind caused by the falling water take your breath away.

I leave the four friends and continue North. From the road I see a beautiful green oasis in the valley, a small village. I pass a cafe on the roadside. A man comes down and beckons me inside. While drinking the obligatory chai, I sit in the middle of the cafe, all men surrounding me, and talk of traveling. I learn that yet again I am in a place called "7-lakes". In the evening I arrive in the beautiful valley-town of Yusufeli and set up my tent on a camp site.

25 - 28.08.2011

Murat arranges that I stay with his friends in Erzurum and assures me that they will welcome me warmly. Hitchiking to Erzurum goes swiftly. Two truckdrivers take me. I show them a World-Electro mix CD I got from Yogesh at the 'Hindiba Pansiyon' and they proudly present their 80's and 90's pop, hip-hop and techno collection, showing me that they are actually thoroughly informed and up-to-date about western style music. All three of us agree quite quickly that we prefer to listen to contemporary Turkish music.


I stay with Murats friends at the famous Selimiye Apartami. On mentioning this house most people in the city and beyond recognize its name. It is a community of professionals and students, living together to devote themselves to the religious practices put forth by Islam and to study the Risale-i-Nur. It is Ramadan and I join the practices connected to it. We join Muhammed Said, a religious teacher, in greeting new University students and attend an evening prayer at the Ulu Cami, the oldest mosque in Erzurum. Prayer times present a wonderful opportunity to meditate and in general the whole community radiates a peace of life, which is extremely conducive for energetic and harmonious states of body and mind.


The apartment attracts visitors from around the world, which quite often come 'by chance' through meeting one of the community members on the streets of Erzurum. Editions of the Risale-i-Nur are present in at least six or seven languages and I am told of two polish travelers who have stayed a week ago and were fascinated by the written volumes.


I meet Abdullah, one of numerous Russians, who come here regularly or live in the community, to study and refresh bonds with their brothers. He is a philosopher at heart, open to all disciplines of knowledge, well informed, well-read, both employed in business and studying, physically well trained and with a gaze that knowns no shyness or reservation. Oguz does fantastic translating work when I talk to the group of concepts from Yogi Philosophy and Theosophy. Sueleyman has memorized the entirety of the 20+ volumes of the Risale-i-Nur and picks out parallels in these works off the top of his head to almost any subject I touch upon.


Teachings of the higher and lower aspects of human nature, the infinite realms of afterlife, incorporeal spirits of nature and the cosmos as well as beings which have long surpassed the human stage of spiritual evolution are all found in the ancient Yogi teachings and the Qu'ran alike. The parallels drawn in Theosophical literature between all religions, extant or extinct, orthodox or pagan, are confirmed by our lively discussions and Sueleyman's in depth knowledge of scriptures ascribed to Islam.


There is however something more which transpires only gradually as I stay at the apartment for several days. The Risale-i-Nur does not provide knowledge of the scientific hue so much, the way Madame Blavatsky's or Anne Besant's works do; Reason is most wonderfully used in Said Nursi's writings, but what I come to feel is that they propel the group onwards in very much a different way. The countless parables, which were written down by him evoke the action of the heart more than anything else. Reason would have its difficulties to find a flaw in the parables, but that which actually speaks more than the numerous volumes of Nursi, is the most beautiful and potent energy the group emanates. It slowly permeates down to my bones. The group perpetuates an incredible vibration, devoting every minute of the day, each and every action to that, which has no external appearance, but is rather the very essence of our being and the Universe.


Call it as you will; the Arabic language has evolved the syllables which together create the word Allah.


The practices which would seem like tedious, monotonous or repetitive to many, seem to blossom here to a most pleasant and meaningful effloresce.

22 - 24.08.2011

I continue to Erzincan where I meet Ozgur, a fellow couchsurfer. We come to the language school, which Ozgur manages and I take part in a spanish class. There I get to know Ekram, a biochemistry professor and Murat, a law professor, both from the Erzincan University. Together, after the lesson, we go atop of a hill overlooking the Erzincan plain; the view is magnificent.

We talk about the islamic society and how central marriage is to relationships. Although this is much more prevalent in the west of Turkey a intersexual relationship is very rare in eastern Turkey before marriage. The concept of boy-friend and girl-friend is not known at all in large parts of the country.


"I think this is good. This provides stability for society, for the family and most importantly for the children" says Murat.
A stereotype, which is very common in Turkey is that westerners, Europeans and Americans, do not value their family, that they live and choose individualistically, irrespective of whether this is conducive to the well-being of all family members. I am asked whether I am married or plan to do so.
"Actual marriage is something which exists apart from formalities and contracts. It is a fact completely independent of it, mutually understood, needing no elaboration. I don't see why I would ever need a written confirmation of it."
I think of the positive and negative aspects of the deeply engrained social norm of formal marriage. Yes, I am accustomed to look from a westerners point of view; But do formalities pose limitations where there is true love and peace?


In the evening we have an exquisite dinner at Ekram's house. The small daughter brings the food from the kitchen. I get to know Ekram's wife only as a reflection in the balcony window leading to the kitchen. Later I learn that it is common for housewives to get to know foreigners only after these have visited several times and both the host and guest have become more familiar with one another.


The following day I spend time at the language school and Murat invites me to his friends house for dinner; once again the food is exquisite. The company is also great, mostly students and professors from university. Murat and me converse until late in the night.


He tells me of how in Turkey increasingly more people becoming practicing muslims nowadays. He himself is taking part in the rewriting of the nations' constitution to take into account aspects of Islamic social life. Up to know the system of law was based mostly on the German and Swiss with some elements of the British system.


Murat mentions the masons. On asking what he means with this he depicts the Star of David and mentions the jewish people. I am surprised but think of the little I have learned of the Zionism. I recall a man from Bangladesh that I have met in London, who emphatically stated that WWII was infact a war between two rivaling Jewish parties.
"The freemasons are in control of most of the governmental positions and have tried to ban Islam from the country. In recent years a degree of sovereignty has been gained politically with 'true' Turks is power again" he says. "Recently the removal of military officials, which were apparently connected with the masons, was a subject in the media. Many people seek guidance and an answer to deep lying questions and dissatisfactions; in Turkey a large number are returning to Islam for the answers."


He introduces me to the Risale-i-Nur by Said Nursi, which is playing a central role in this movement of society. Nursi authored a large portion of his works in prison, because the Turkish government at the time wanted to prevent his works to be disseminated. Now it is becoming increasingly popular and many religious groups take it as the foundation of their studies.

14 - 21.08.2011

Robert and I pick mulberries from the ground among the 30 or so trees, which have been cultivated by the family for generations. We manage the irrigation system and sort the dry mulberries by quality. Latif also introduces us to the process of making 'Pekmez,' mulberry syrup. Dried mulberries are cooked for 3 hours in a massive cauldron. The berries are sieved out and the remaining syrup is left over the night in a 'settling container'. We drink cups of this syrup as it is still hot. It seems like an absolute elixir of energy. This syrup is then left in shallow platters in the sun for four days. What remains afterwards is viscous mass resembling sugar beet syrup in appearance and even somewhat in taste. It is a main constituent of our daily meals.


I talk with Robert about politics, social ideals, the globalized society, the sciences, religions and experiences of traveling and nature.
"Democracy does not promote equal rights for the people; 51% of the people dictate the conditions of life for the other 49%, which don't want anything to do with this state of things" says Robert.
"What is the alternative" I ask.
"People sit down at a table, discuss what they want to do among themselves and do it" is the answer.
"You mean families and smaller groups of people?"
"Yes."
"That implies the absence of nations, the absence of globalized trading systems, the absence of centralized systems of enforced law" I add, understanding that our ideals of society are not far apart.


I think of the society in which human conscience and intuition have reached a level at which bureaucracy and enforced law have long been transcended; it is the society in which every man and woman is incarnated law, goodness and productivity. The slightest negative and downcast vibration among any member of this society is immediately sensed by the highly developed inner senses of the people and the surrounding family and friends immediately come to this individual with uplifting and invigorating thoughts. Small villages and towns are mostly self-sufficient in terms of the basic commodities of life, and the books, musical instruments, scientific instruments, perfumes, artworks and high-technology is shared by all in the community at the central abode. Besides caring for its own physical survival and well-being, following its professional employments, the main occupation of this society is the sharing of deep and warm emotions and refined thoughts through meditation, concentration, dance, music, and the other arts; Words are often not even necessary.


Robert studied in Leipzig, Germany, in which so called 'house projects' are prevalent. Old multistorey buildings can be bought for cheap in the city and groups of friends convert these to flat-shares, art studios, spaces for workshops and meeting areas for political initiatives. His friends have for example started such a house project, initiating student flatshares and opening a 'Peoples Kitchen' on the ground floor. This is open once a week; food is cooked on a large scale and everybody who wishes to, can come and have their share of food for free; donations are welcome. Of course this is a hub at which people meet and socialize, but also where initiatives are planned and people meet for brainstorming and the exchange of ideas.


Robert and I climb the mountain slopes to gain the fantastic view over the valley of Kemaliye. What I thought to be a lake is actually the Euphrates River, flowing down from the mountains around Erzurum. Hydroelectric dams have transformed the landscape over the last 30 years. We camp out one night at the lake, lying on the grass until late in the evening, gazing at the myriad stars and milky way.

"And among all this we exist; tiny specks among an unfathomable universe" says Robert
"We clutter ourselves with envy, anger, confusion, jealousy, competition and pride
in our cramped circles of acquaintances in our small rooms. How seldom do we actually go out to have a look at the sky and to truly breath. We habitually overlook the most majestic and thrilling of enigmas" I say.


I add "You know, what occupies me for the last several years is the fact that we are actually conscious"
"Yeah, true. We could just be automatons sensing and thinking without being conscious of it."
I laugh "But see, there you hit the paradox, just try to imagine it; Its impossible."


You may talk of sensing and processing information arbitrarily, applying it to computers and artificial intelligence for instance. Can you talk of thought and emotion in such a way? Life cannot be separated from these. And what is the essence of Life but Consciousness . . . and what about Love?

12 - 13.08.2011

Ersen takes me from Giresun to Dereli. He has his own business, delivering sweetmeats to shops in the area with his van. Before we part in Dereli, he opens the back of the van and pulls out more than half a kilogram of chocolate as a goodbye present. I imagine the state of my body if I were to use this as my diet for the next couple of days.


I continue south from Giresun to the Kuembet Yayla. In Turkey the Yayla is a name for highland plateaues to which the people from the country-side and the nearby cities migrate in order to escape the excessive heat of the summer months and carry out agriculture in the humid climates. The people come together on the Yaylas to celebrate, play music and dance. Established settlements are usually found there, but many people dwell in temporary camps over the summer.


The way to Kuembet is steep and it seems to be located in a very remote area. On arriving to the town I see the main street completely filled with people, so that any cars have to make their way through in walking speed. The air is absolutely crystal clear, invirgorating and fresh. Fog covers a landscape, which otherwise provides astonishing views over the mountains. I attempt to trade some chocolate for bread. The baker does not want chocolate, but gives me the bread for free, warm and fresh.


I meet a family living and working Germany that is here on vacation. The family father assures me that once the sun is out Kuembet and the surrounding area is paradise. I continue south and make my own picture of the environment. Not only the name of Kuembet is somewhat related to Tibet. The atmosphere is charged, electric and pure. Simply taking deep breaths here is a spectacle by itself, it makes you laugh and smile, you feel the energy circulate inside and involuntary joy and vigor arises.


I feel that I could travel through this area for ages; there is no real motivation to hitchhike. Once again I am reminded that the fantastic environments of Lord of the Rings or Avatar are simply poor imitations of that which is actual fact in this, our world.


I pass Shebinkarahisar, south of Kuembet with a Ottoman fortress overlooking a vast undulating plain. A  feeling for the vast expanses of land arises in areas like these, which is in no way comparable to what can be sensed in Europe. Not even the views from the Alps provide views over such vast and variegated landscape. From this highland I experience a storm like in a gallery, like watching a slide show; Somehow I take part, but I am in no way physically affected by it. Dark and mennacing clouds, lightning and thunder come so close that I prepare myself for rain. Dark myst fills the air in the distance, signifiying heavy downfall, but only a few drops reach the highway I walk along and barely a wind is felt.

I reach Refahiye in the evening and set up my tent next to the river not too far from the road. I continue south the following day towards Kemaliye. The road is wide and empty, passing cars are rare. I walk a long distance among arid mountains and get only short lifts. In the late afternoon a small truck picks me up bringing sheeps wool to Ilic. The drivers cabin is full, but I drop myself in the back of the truck. I have never felt greater physical relaxation than in this emperor-sized bed made of pure sheeps wool.


From Ilic I take a Dolmush to Kemaliye. At one point the environment changes from an arid mountainous landscape to a steep, lush green valley with a lake at its bottom. We pass beautifully restored houses with traditional wooden facades on the road at the valley side. I just want to ask through what magical place we are passing when the Dolmush stops; we have arrived in Kemaliye.


I call Latif Yalciner, the owner of the mulberry farm I have planned to work on for the next week or so. He picks me up with a full-sized empty bus. I learn that in addition to his farming work he has started to lead tours around the valley and the surrounding country and that he manages a small tourist office in town. On the farm I meet Robert, from Germany who has arrived the day before. 

10 - 11.08.2011

A man regularly brings bread to the village with his van from the bakery in Gumushacikoy. He takes me back to the town and from Merzifon I hitchike to Samsun. A lawyer in criminal affairs drives me; his name is Savas, which literally means 'war' in Turkish. I think out loud saying that the desire to join the EU might bring about changes in the Turkey, which will cause the people to forget about the most essential human qualities. I take as a basis urban life in France, Germany, England for instance, where the profusion of products, the apparent lack of nothing, seems to be spoiling a sense of true value among the people; The most natural values of sharing, being with others and enjoying the natural bounties of air, sun and fresh food are often replaced by the desire for the best look, the sweetest car or the latest high-tech gadget.
"Turkish culture and people are defined by the country side. The traditional values of hospitality and the love of the country are deeply rooted. This cannot be fully displaced by consumerist lifestyles" says Savas

I stay a night in Samsun. I am surprised at the very clean and beautifully designed coastal promenades in the center. The next day I continue East along the coast to Giresun where I meet Muzaffer, a fellow couchsurfer. He is hosting another guest, Sang-Eun (alias Inwho) from South-Korea. Inwho has arrived in Giresun after two years of travelling from Korea with his bicycle. It is highly inspiring to talk to him. Experience and hardship seem to have made him resistant to any sort of uneasiness in no matter what surroundings. Any wisp of the slightest expectation seems to have left Inwho ages ago. The way things come is the way things are; if things seem bad they are surely always sufficient to continue onwards.

Sang-Eun is a film director. He is planning to travel around the world in five years and make a documentary from the footage he takes. His equipment is sponsored by three outdoor companies and his camera follows him in almost anything he does. You can visit his homepage here: http://rrmbyinwho.tistory.com

"What is the driving force, the inspiration behind the journey; why are you going". I ask
"Why not?" he answers "There is no concrete aim or inspiration".
I think of my own situation. Is it so different? I don't have an agenda, I am not here for business, there is no concrete aim, I am not expecting a tangible result - There are however those driving ideals...
I ask: "Isn't it so that at one point a seed seems to be planted in the mind, the desire for experience, for adventure for a way of life, perhaps minute and inauspicious at first, and that in time a plant starts to grow from it? Eventually this plant is well grown and its fruits ripen: the results ensue. When and wherefrom the original seed has come is maybe forgotten; but is it even relevant?"
Inwho agrees and smiles: "Yes it is like that"

We receive such seeds regularly, weekly, daily, but heed perhaps but the minutest fraction of these. There might be seeds of weeds and seeds of mighty fruit trees among them, but in each and every moment we are the ones that choose which ones we wish to water and to give sunshine. With Will and Determination a seed in the most unfriendly of environments can grow to a beautiful and harmoniously branching plant.

In the evening we go out to the beach with friends of Muzaffer, Caglar and his Fiance. We share experiences of traveling in different countries and learn of each others mindsets.

02 - 09.08.2011

In Turkey there are broadly speaking four kind of buses: The big coaches, the numbered city buses of which there are government run and privately run versions on each route, and the so called 'Dolmush'. Dolmuş literally means 'full' in Turkish. These local buses are very small, normally begin their journey only when they are completely full and stop wherever this is desired on the given route. Fare prices are very low and although some coach companies try to immiate the concept, the real Dolmuş buses will probably remain unsurpassed as long as Gasoline-powered vehicles govern our mode of transportation.   

With a coach I leave Ankara towards Merzifon and take a Dolmush from Merzifon to Gümüşhacıköy. The seats are bright yellow with bright red head-rest-covers, bead decorations hang everywhere with heart shaped elements and smiley-stickers cover the dashboard: a hippie-dolmuş.

From Gümüşhacıköy Cemalettin, the son of Celal Oktay, brings me to the Oktay farm. The farm is located in a truly rural northern-Anatolian village. The surroundings are arid with beautiful mountain landscapes stretching out to all sides. We arrive at the house ontop of a hill, sit down on the terrace looking out onto the sunset and start conversing, each with a Turkish-English/German dictionary in hand.

In the next days I learn of the true value of language. On the one hand I notice what fantastic understanding and harmony can develop with only the most minimal use of words; this was truly apparent. On the other hand I learn how absolutely essential language is in bonding with others. I start reading the dictionary and get creative with pen and paper to convey more complex ideas. The Oktay family hosts me most warmly and I experience the life of a farmer. At the same time however I feel the necessity, the urge, of being with people with which I can communicate more deeply.

Celal Oktay was a police officer and is now retired. As a pensioner he decided it is time to go back to the countryside and live a farmer's life. The energy of that man and his wife Hatice is most astounding. He shoots with spurts of humour and the people simply laugh. She runs the household, from cleaning to grinding poppy seeds ('hash-hash' in Turkish) and baking bread in a massive stone oven, heated up with firewood.

In the village I stand out as a foreigner. The elderly take their palm to their heart and welcome me, the children look, laugh and chat excitedly. Only later do I notice that the village ought truly to be seen as small and deeply rural; there is not one shop and not even a minarette.

I help in cementing the gaps in a stone wall of the house, dig up potatoes, pick beans, water the back garden, collect straw for the winter, help in milking the goats, which Celal takes out on the pastures each day, and drive the tractor on occasion. On one night we go out to a Hot-spring bath and I learn of the fantastic bath culture of Turkey. Baths and hot-springs are very common and people meet and socialize there. I notice a bit of interesting symbology: Towels with red-white patterns hang in the changing room. You may enter the bath-hall with these. On exiting the bath a member of the personell takes the red towel from you and stretches a towel of blue-white patterns infront you, so that you can take off any bathing clothes. He then wraps the towel around your waist, hangs a further blue towel across your shoulders and another small blue towel on your head. Your bathing clothes are put into a seperate plastic bag. 

Thus clad in an array of towels I returned to the changing room and sat on one of the large cushioned benches. There some people lie down and relax, one is on the phone; a bartender comes up and asks if he can bring something. He is not dissapointed if you decline and is keen on chatting and learning about the people.

One enters the bath 'red' with weariness, worries, dirt, tension, extrovert unharmonious energy.
One exits the bath 'blue' with refreshment, relaxation, cleanliness, a balanced and peacefull state. 

26.07.2011 - 01.08.2011

I stay one more day at ‘Hindiba Pansiyon’ and travel onwards to Amasra. Mehmed, a maths teacher, from Bartin takes me with him to Kurucaşile, east of Amasra by the coast, where he is going with his son for a swim in the sea.. The beaches in the coastal cities of this region are quite full with natives, spending their holidays there.

I decide to return to Bartin with Mehmed in the late afternoon to head south again to Ankara. As we are on the highway back to his hometown, Ahmed decides that it is time for a meal. He stops at the side of the road and we have a standing picknick off the top of the trunk.

A man takes me south from Bartin for a while. I get out at the point where he turns west to Zonguldak. It is late and I decide to continue to Ankara the following morning. I see a sign for a camp site on the side of the road and enter a large park, with a hotel and football pitch. I don’t see any campers and ask at the hotel reception where I could set up my tent. A receptionist brings me to a pleasant spot under trees. On asking if I can have a shower somewhere he brings me to a desolate outdoor swimming pool. The water is like a mirror and mountains can be seen from two sides. He tells me I may jump in and have a shower afterwards. The water is warm after the day of sunshine.

In the morning I have a shower at the pool again. On leaving the pool area, one of the receptionists greets me and invites me to the open buffet of the hotel for breakfast. I see seven people altogether in the massive dining hall. The buffet is prepared for at least 50.

Ahmed takes me to Ankara. He fumbles a rosary and flicks it around wildly from time to time. On overtaking three cars and a truck at once in a tight curve on the highway, the rosary whirls around in his left hand, while he seems to mutter some prayers in Turkish or Arabic. An arid desert-like country spreads around us as we approach the capital. It seems like no larger animal could survive here. We stop at a highway restaurant, which is surrounded by about 15 high poles. I see that each of these has a genuine, inhabited stork nest on top.

In Ankara I meet with Keram and Cansu, whom I have met at the 'Hindiba Pansiyon'. From Kerams friend, Kenan, a history graduate, I learn more of the Shamanic roots of the Turkik tribes, their wars in central Asia against China, their probable connection with the Mongol people and their migration westward to Anatolia after their conversion to Islam. I stay at Oguz’ place, a very hospitable couchsurfer and plan the next steps. I also meet up with the Brahma Kumaris group in Ankara. It is inspiring to be with them, to exchange understanding and energies.

Ramadan starts on the 1st. I stay at a large flatshare, the "Secret Ankara Hostel". Rasmus, Mikael and Nikola volunteer with EVS in Ankara and are hosted royally with pocket money and a luxurious flat. 
I talk with Mikael about traveling, but also the state of the world, the globalized system and how conditions of life will change.
"People will wake up when it's nearly too late, not when it's too late. But only when the results of the current lifestyle are infront of the peoples faces, only when they can't avoid seeing them, then will change hasten on a broader scale." says Mikael
Skayan from Holland and Anna from Iran, a couple, are also couchsurfing at the "hostel". Skayan is hitchhiking to Mongolia and Anna is starting studies in Holland. Eventually Skayan will return to Holland and will perhaps finally settle at the age of 37. Like so many others the search for a purpose occupies him.
"From elementary school you are moulded and taught how to conform to the "adult" world, which is oh-so-serious. Every person has their completely unique inner potentials, which may hardly be touched upon within the uniform system of education. says Skayan
Skayan wishes deepen his relations with other people, to get to feel and bond with their energies. He hopes to be engaged with people most closely in this way, perhaps performing Reiki or other bioenergetic healing practices in the future.