Thursday, July 21, 2011

17 - 21.07.2011

We part. I make may way towards Mengen from where I am told it is not far to the Hindiba Pansiyon. I have planned to do volunteering work there for food and a bed. I arrive there in the evening.

At the pension I meet Jusuf and Saheb. Jusuf describes the outlines of the screenplay Saheb is currently writing, while she sits next to us with her laptop working. She is an author, he works for a film production company. 'Berlin - Istanbul Connection: the People in the Shadow' is the working title for the next series. It will be produced jointly by a Turkish and German team.

Young women with their breasts cut off are found dead in Istanbul. A serial killer is suspected, as this happens repeatedly in the same fashion. Some time later the same starts to occur in Berlin however and a larger picture starts to become apparent. The immigration of poor Asian women, that want to escape their conditions of life, is organized under certain conditions: packets of drugs are implanted into their breasts as payment. They have no other means.

I meet Onur and his girlfriend. He was a scoobadiving instructor and is now captain of a towing ship in the Caspian Sea. Whole fleets of such 'assisstant ships' are required for leading large cargo ships into the harbour or transporting barges for instance. His first diving experiences completely transformed his outlook on nature. He used to throw trash around without afterthought. Now he is angry at the destruction of nature which is taking place worldwide. He himslef works for companies such as BP, Shell and Agip, assissting in large scale drilling operations as well as the digging up of the sea's benthos.



He assures me that despite cute looks, Caspian seals may infact be voracious creatures. A fellow captain of his, Amar, a Russian of Vin Diesel type looks, had two of his toes bitten off by one as he was out for a swim. Amar is always smiling. He regularly takes ecstatsy before boarding his ship. On coordinating joint maneuvers  with him over the radio, pumping techno beats are always heard from his bridge. In the harbour of Atyrau frantic metallic drumming is sometimes heard from the bridge of the towing ship of another fellow captain, Erik, a Dutchman. Like so many others he returns from his vacation in Amsterdam with a substantial stash of marijuana and enjoys the acoustics of his ship.

In the evening superficial layers fall and the discussion deepens. UFO sightings, underwater life and the value of nature become the main topics.

I meet Gamze, who mentions the original shamanic beliefs of the Turks. The custom of knocking on wood when talking of something you hope not to happen is still practiced in Turkey today. I recall seeing this throughout my childhood among the Polish side of the family. Disjointed sandgrains of ancient science.

I am fed like a king. The wife of the manager seems satisfied when, after two nights, I finally return the plates to the kitchen with food still left on them. The instinct of hunger is utterly satiated.

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