27 - 30.10.2011

We hitchike towards Sisian. A truck-driver takes us for a while. We pass of stretch of highway, alongside which an earthen wall has been piled up. This is as a response to shots coming over from Azerbaijan recently. We wonder at the speed of the truck, a soviet 'Kamaz'; we could walk as fast with our packs. 

"Twenty-three tons of beer" the driver explains "2600 crates of nine bottles each."

We thank him and leave the truck.

We arrive in Areni, lying in a mountain valley and ask a family sitting on the veranda whether we can set up the tent anywhere close. They beckon us to sit down and serve us a most delicious dinner of fried potatoes with onions, bread, cheese, absolutely delicious tomatoes and burning chillies. Gevgor takes us to his uncles family and then invites us to stay at their place for the night.

The following day we visit Noravank, an ancient monastery at which khatchkars are present with enigmatic, precisely formed holes. Confirming what I have read earlier, these were monoliths employed for specific purposes by pre-christian cultures, often found next to rivers - which were later converted to khatchkars. I think of the extensive knowledge of geomancy that ancient cultures disposed of.

We continue south and pass two police road-blocks on foot, at which all cars are stopped due to snow blocking the road further south in the mountains. We continue as far as we can with Armin, who invites us for the night to his families place in Saravan. We are hosted most warmly.

The sun is out on the following day and we pass Sisian towards Tatev monastery. Two men, Artak and Arthur, take us there in their van. They are delivering sweets and other food all the way from Yerevan to the villages near Tatev. We descend into an incredible abyss of a valley and climb all the way up again to the other side. The two have started to drink home-made vodka and by the time we enter the monastery together, Artak needs to catch himself on his own feet ever so often, propping himself on a wall perchance. The whole area is covered in dense fog, creating a uniquely mysterious atmosphere. Artak talks long with a friendly young priest who repeatedly gives his blessings to each of us in turn. We were planning to wait for Artak and Arthur at the monastery until they they complete their delivieries and take us back to the Yerevan-Goris highway, but now they take us straight away, with all the food undelivered, planning to go back to Yerevan straight away.

"But don't you have unfinished business in the villages?" I ask amazed.

"You don't understand." Artak replies, barely able to hold the van on the road or to shift gears. "This is Armenia; We have just been blessed by an illuminated man. Today there is no more work."

We cannot believe what we have heard. The men drive a van, packed full of food back to Yerevan. Artak drops me in Goris at his friends place, where I can stay for the night cheaply and comfortably. Roland returns to Yerevan with the two. Our ways part. The time spent with Roland will remain in memory as very educating. Thank you.

I continue the next day over a 4500 meter pass to Meghri where I stay for the night.